Saturday, May 18, 2013

And Then There was a Tasting Menu

Rosemary flat bread with whipped ricotta

Restaurant Name: Battersby
Location: 255 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY, 11231
Price Range: $65/per person
JCL Rating: 9/10
JCL's Choice: Tasting Menu


Brooklyn is transforming itself on the notes in culinary world. Slowly but surely many great restaurants are emerging. This is the first Brooklyn restaurant that we dined in that is serving food of superior caliber. Battersby, that's the name. Introduced to me by Matt Brill (AKA Mr. Grill). Both of us being cooks, we were on a mission to dissect and fabricate whatever Battersby throws at us. And of course enjoy and savor every last bite of each dish!

Chef and owners Joseph Ogrodnek and Walker Stern were the founders of Battersby. Located in the heart of Carroll Garden, this tiny 20-ish seat restaurant resides in a calm neighborhood. We were greeted warmly as we entered. Without a reservation, the hostess guesstimated a 30 minute wait. She took down my number and informed us that I will receive a text when seating is almost ready. We hangout around the area until we were notified.

As we were seated, menus were delivered to us immediately. Our server, Laren explained that aside from the a la carte menu, there is also a simultaneous tasting menu. Of course we chose the tasting menu. Expecting great food we paired our meal with a German Riesling, 2011, Kabinett (German term for 'Reserved' wine). It was a really soft and light fruity white. A wine that can be enjoyed with any meal. A safer choice.

Chef Joe began our meal with 2 amuse bouche, a shot of hot asparagus soup and a chicken liver mousse on crostini. That opened our palates. The restaurant serves a board of rosemary flat bread and a whipped ricotta with olive oil and pepper replaced butter. Super creamy and light.
Marianted artichoke salad
And our first course arrives, marinated artichoke with olives and feta cheese. It was garnished with cucumber and radish. It was such a harmonious dish. Each of the ingredients, including the garnishes, sings along each other. So many flavor profiles but yet all worked extremely well. The sweetness of the cucumber, the spiciness from the radish, the saltiness from the olives and feta cheese, the marinated artichoke calms the level of flavors that each of the ingredients offers. Everything together is truly a symphonic bite.
Toasted spaetzle
Our second course was the toasted spaetzle with bacon, farm egg and sauteed whole ramp. The first bite I took was the spaetzle and bacon only. The chewiness of the cubed smoked bacon contrasting the tender and soft texture of the spaetzle was awesome. Once you break the egg yolk and mix it with the spaetzle, the creaminess and richness brings the bacon and spaetzle to a whole other level. Take a bite of the ramp and the rest of the spaetzle. You will find yourself hungry for more of this delicious spaetzle.
Black bass with Spring vegetables and broccoli puree
The fish course was next. A black bass served with a loose creamy puree of broccoli with specs of basil, chili, and spring vegetables. The fish was cooked perfectly. The savoriness from the seasonings, the sweetness from the spring vegetables, a tad of creaminess and spiciness from the puree. Oh, flavor heaven, we are back. The balance of the dish was incredible. But I do wish the proportion from the puree/vegetables and fish would even out a bit more.
Braised wagyu short rips with crispy kale and papaya salad
Braised wagyu short ribs was our last savory course. It is served on a bed of papaya salad. On top and around the wagyu were crispy kale. Garnished with whole leaves of Thai basil, mint, fried shallot and peanut. The short ribs were braised to fork tender. The crunchy element were from the delicious and umami crispy kale in addition to the nutty peanuts. The vinaigrette of lime, fish sauce and cane sugar (similar to a tam som dressing) penetrates the heavy flavors of the braised short ribs. The expensive wagyu was the star of the dish... until you take a bite of everything with it. You will realize that each ingredient enhances the natural flavors of each other.

And now we are on to our last course, the dessert course. Chef Joe started us with an intermezzo of Pimm's (the liquor) granita with a cucumber sorbet. Super refreshing. The cucumbers sweetness refreshes your palate almost immediately.
Keylime pie
Chocolate and caramel mousse with meyer lemon curd and marcona almonds
For dessert, we had a chocolate caramel mousse with meyer lemon curd and marcona almond; and a keylime pie. The chocolate caramel mousse was really sweet, but the saltiness of the marcona almonds ease it down. The tartness of the meyer lemon curd and segments brings in the other element to the dish. Beautifully done. The keylime pie was bruleed on top to give it a touch of rustic feel. It was very light, and the crust was thick and firm. Very creamy. Simply perfected.

To finish off our meal, we had two pieces of maple brown butter madaleine. Light and delicious. Chef Joe and Walker has demonstrated the essence of flavor profiles. Each dish had contrasting flavors and textures that will make you want to have one more bite. Each dish's ingredients works in harmony with each other.

This was such an amazing experience. By experience I don't mean just the food, the service and ambiance included. Our server Laren was extremely professional and friendly. Our water glass was never empty. I would recommend anyone to give this place a visit. ORDER THE TASTING MENU! This is one of the best meals I have had in a long time. Absolutely phenomenal.

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